Detail View: Museum and the Online Archive of California: Textile; semba; man's shoulder cloth. Indonesia
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Collection:
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Museum and the Online Archive of California
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Creation Place:
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Bhene Laja
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Creation Place:
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Flores
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Creation Place:
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Indonesia
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Creation Place:
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Lio
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Creation Place:
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Onelako Village
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Creation Place:
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Radawuwu Hamlet
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Title:
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Textile; semba; man's shoulder cloth. Indonesia
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Date:
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1930-1953
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Materials:
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fabric, cotton
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Materials:
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hand spun
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Materials:
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hand woven
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Materials:
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back tension loom
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Materials:
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warp ikat
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Materials:
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hand sewn
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Materials:
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indigo
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Materials:
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morinda dye
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Materials:
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fringed
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Materials:
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twined
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Dimensions:
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228.0 cm by 123.4 cm
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Current Location:
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Fowler Museum of Cultural History. University of California, Los Angeles.
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Address:
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Los Angeles, California 90095-1549
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Object ID:
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UCLA FMCH X88.1277
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Subject:
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- fabric, cotton hand spun hand woven back tension loom warp ikat hand
sewn indigo morinda dye fringed twined
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Heading:
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Content/Description
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Notes:
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REMARKS BY ROY HAMILTON (1988): Constructed of two panels sewn together by hand. Field collected in the home of the owners. The ikat work for this cloth was done by Bhene Laja, a weaver who is credited with establishing this pattern in the Ndona Subdistrict. The cloth was comissioned by a family in a neighboring hamlet, who probably arranged for the weaving among the women of thier own family. Bhene Laja was born in the Manu Nggo'ok section of the town of Ende. She married a man from Onelako and moved there, remaining for the rest of her life. Two panel men's shoulder cloths were once common in Ende. According to informants in Onelako, Bhene copied this pattern from the work of another Ende weaver, then brought it with her when she moved to Onelako. Over the intervening years, this style of cloth has completely died out in Ende. Two panel cloths have not been made there since WWII. The pattern and two-panel style became established and flourished in Onelako and spread to other neighboring villages in Ndona Subdistrict, especially Lokoboko and Wolotopo. This style of cloth is now considered characteristic of Ndona Subdistrict. Most weavers know the cloth only as "semba". During interviews in the field, one very elderly and knowledgable weaver said additionally that the name of the pattern itself is "lika mboja" and that the full proper name of the cloth should be "semba lika mboja". Bhene Laja died approximately 1953. The production date of this cloth is not known with certainty and might have been anytime from 1930 to 1953.
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Collection Description:
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METS ID:
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ark:/13030/ft109n99wt
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