Detail View: Museum and the Online Archive of California: Textile; ulos ragidup; ceremonial gift or funeral shroud. Indonesia
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Collection:
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Museum and the Online Archive of California
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Creation Place:
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Indonesia
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Creation Place:
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North Sumatra
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Creation Place:
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Toba Batak
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Title:
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Textile; ulos ragidup; ceremonial gift or funeral shroud. Indonesia
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Date:
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Collected 1930s
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Materials:
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handwoven
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Materials:
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supplementary weft
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Materials:
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supplementary warp
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Materials:
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twining
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Materials:
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cotton
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Materials:
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fabric
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Dimensions:
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208.2 cm by 113.0 cm
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Current Location:
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Fowler Museum of Cultural History. University of California, Los Angeles.
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Address:
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Los Angeles, California 90095-1549
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Object ID:
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UCLA FMCH X74.368
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Subject:
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- handwoven supplementary weft supplementary warp twining cotton fabric
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Heading:
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Content/Description
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Notes:
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REMARKS COMPILED IN 1987 BY ROY HAMILTON ON BASIS OF EXISTING RECORDS, EXAMINATION OF OBJECT, AND REVIEW OF THE LITERATURE: "Ulos ragidup" ["ragidup" = "pattern of life"]. Consists of three panels sewn together. Commercial thread and dye. This cloth shows the characteristic construction features of the classical "ragidup", including supplementary warp decoration in the narrow stripes of the lateral panels, twined border securing the fringe, and the unique joining of new warp yarns where the supplementary weft end panels are joined to the center section [see Gittinger 1975:13-15]. A similar cloth is illustrated in Gittinger 1979:plate 63. The "ulos ragidup" is the most sacred of Toba Batak "ulos". It plays many ceremonial roles, including as a gift to the bride's kin at weddings, as a gift to a woman pregnant with her first child, and as a funeral shroud. In all these cases, the giving of the "ragidup" follows channels of specific kin group relationships. "Ulos ragidup" are also worn as required dance costume in rites performed by ritual specialists called "datu", such as at the New Year's ceremonies. See Gittinger 1975:21-25 for a full description of the ceremonial uses of "ragidup" and for illustrations of their use.
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Heading:
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BIBLIOGRAPHY:
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Notes:
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REMARKS BY ANNE & JOHN SUMMERFIELD (1990): A recent addition to the literature describing the split warp technique of the ulos is: Niessen, Sandra A., 1988/89. "Exchanging Warp in the Batak Ragidup and Bulang.", THE TEXTILE MUSEUM JOURNAL (27/28); 40-55.
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Collection Description:
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METS ID:
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ark:/13030/ft0v19n71j
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