Media Information

 
 
 
Collection:
Museum and the Online Archive of California
Creation Place:
Eliza Van Zuylen
Creation Place:
Indonesia
Creation Place:
Java
Creation Place:
Pekalongan
Title:
Textile; sarong. Indonesia
Date:
1890-1946
Materials:
batik tulis
Materials:
machine woven
Materials:
cotton
Materials:
fabric
Dimensions:
216.0 cm by 108.0 cm
Current Location:
Fowler Museum of Cultural History. University of California, Los Angeles.
Address:
Los Angeles, California 90095-1549
Object ID:
UCLA FMCH X67.2253
Subject:
- signature floral butterfly
- batik tulis machine woven cotton fabric
Heading:
Content/Description
Notes:
REMARKS COMPILED IN 1987 BY ROY HAMILTON ON BASIS OF EXISTING RECORDS, EXAMINATION OF OBJECT, AND REVIEW OF THE LITERATURE: Batik tulis or hand drawn batik. The term "sarong" as used here refers to a particular size and style of batik cloth [see Elliott 1984:32]. The characteristic feature in this case is the wide border or "kepala" [="head"] at one end of the cloth. Sarong style cloths were usually sewn into a loop before wearing, a style considered less formal than the flat "kain" style of cloth worn in a wrap-around fashion. This sarong is an example of North Coast batik style, from the town of Pekalongan on the North Coast of Central Java. This cloth bears the signature "E v Zuylen". This is the signature of Eliza van Zuylen, a Eurasian woman who founded the most prestigious batik workshop in Pekalongan. Her workshop operated from 1890-1946. Later batiks also carried a copy of the van Zuylen signature, but supposedly accompanied as well by the signature of the Chinese managers who assumed use of the van Zuylen signature [Raadt-Apell 1982:92]. Therefore, there is no reason to believe that this is not a genuine product of the van Zuylen workshop. There is special significance to the monochromatic blue and white color scheme of this cloth (most Pekalongan batiks carry several pastel hues). Blue and white sarongs were used by Eurasian brides when retiring after the wedding. The tradition among the Chinese community of the North Coast was for women to wear blue and white sarongs as a sign of mourning. This tradition was followed by Eliza van Zuylen herself [Raadt-Apell 1982:83]. The following information is from Rachael Grossman (1975): Pekalongan style; man's sarong; hand drawn ["tulis"] batik; fairly good quality. This designation as a man's sarong is questionable. According to Raadt-Apell [1982:80], both "sarong" and "kain" style cloths were worn by both men and women and the van Zuylen workshop specialized in the production of cloth for women. Certainly by today's standards, a flowered garment like this i
s considered women's wear in Pekalongan.
Heading:
BIBLIOGRAPHY:
Notes:
Raadt-Apell, M. J. de. 1982. "Van Zuylen Batik, Pekalongan, Central Java (1890-1946)". TEXTILE MUSEUM JOURNAL 19-20:75-92.
Collection Description:
METS ID:
ark:/13030/ft0r29n6b 2

Textile; sarong. Indonesia