Detail View: Museum and the Online Archive of California: Textile; sarong. Indonesia

Collection: 
Museum and the Online Archive of California
Creation Place: 
Eliza Van Zuylen
Creation Place: 
Indonesia
Creation Place: 
Java
Creation Place: 
Pekalongan
Title: 
Textile; sarong. Indonesia
Date: 
1890-1946
Materials: 
batik tulis
Materials: 
machine woven
Materials: 
cotton
Materials: 
fabric
Dimensions: 
106.7 cm by 99.3 cm
Current Location: 
Fowler Museum of Cultural History. University of California, Los Angeles.
Address: 
Los Angeles, California 90095-1549
Object ID: 
UCLA FMCH X78.19
Subject: 
- floral butterflies dragonfly bird "kepala" - batik tulis machine woven cotton fabric
Heading: 
Content/Description
Notes: 
REMARKS COMPILED IN 1987 BY ROY HAMILTON ON BASIS OF EXISTING RECORDS, EXAMINATION OF OBJECT, AND REVIEW OF THE LITERATURE: "Tulis" or hand drawn batik; chemical dyes. The motifs and color scheme are characteristic of batik from the town of Pekalongan on the North Coast of Central Java. The term "sarong" used in this sense refers to a particular size and style of batik cloth [see Elliott 1984:32; Raadt-Apell 1982:78]. The characteristic feature of this style of cloth is the "kepala" [= "head"] or vertical decorative band with a motif which contrasts with the "badan" [="body"] of the sarong. This cloth is still sewn into a tube as it would have been worn. The "sarong" style of cloth is considered less formal than the flat "kain" worn in wrap-around fashion; both were once worn by both men and women [Raadt-Apell 1982:80]. In Pekalongan today, a flowered pattern like this would be considered a woman's sarong. This cloth bears the signature "E v Zuylen" and a stamp reading "BATIKKERIJ MEVR. E. VAN ZUYLEN". These are the trademarks of the the batik workshop run by a Eurasian woman named Eliza van Zuylen in Pekalongan from 1890 to 1946 [see illustrations in Raadt-Apell 1982:75]. This was the most prestigious workshop in Pekalongan. Although the van Zuylen signature was later copied by unrelated workshops, such cloths usually bear the additional signature of the Chinese workshop manager [Raadt-Apell 1982:92]. Thus there is no definative reason to believe that this cloth is other than a genuine production of the van Zuylen workshop.
Heading: 
BIBLIOGRAPHY:
Notes: 
Raadt-Apell, M. J. de. 1982. "Van Zuylen Batik, Pekalongan, Central Java (1890-1946)". TEXTILE MUSEUM JOURNAL 19-20:75-92.
Collection Description: 
METS ID: 
ark:/13030/ft2h4nb1c7