Collection:
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Museum and the Online Archive of California
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Creation Place:
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Borneo
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Creation Place:
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Iban
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Creation Place:
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Malaysia
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Creation Place:
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Sarawak
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Title:
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Textile; pua sungkit. Malaysia
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Date:
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1900
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Materials:
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handwoven
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Materials:
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supplementary weft
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Materials:
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"sungkit"
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Materials:
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cotton
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Materials:
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fabric
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Dimensions:
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130.1 cm by 162.4 cm
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Current Location:
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Fowler Museum of Cultural History. University of California, Los Angeles.
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Address:
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Los Angeles, California 90095-1549
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Object ID:
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UCLA FMCH X81.1457
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Subject:
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- handwoven supplementary weft "sungkit" cotton fabric
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Heading:
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Content/Description
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Notes:
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REMARKS COMPILED IN 1987 BY ROY HAMILTON ON BASIS OF EXISTING RECORDS, EXAMINATION OF OBJECT, AND REVIEW OF THE LITERATURE: BACKGROUND INFORMATION ON IBAN "PUA" DECORATED WITH THE "SUNGKIT" SUPPLEMENTARY WEFT TECHNIQUE: "Pua" are Iban ceremonial blankets. Most "pua" are decorated with the warp ikat technique, but there are also "pua" decorated with a supplementary weft technique known as "sungkit". In the "sungkit" technique, the weaver uses a needle to wrap the supplementary weft yarns completely around the warp elements. This produces a double-faced fabric, with the motifs appearing identically on both sides of the cloth [Gittinger 1979:228]. Several of these cloths in the FMCH collection were originally labeled "pua songket" on the accession sheets. "Songket" is a different supplementary weft technique, widespread in Indonesia, wherein the weft yarns are picked straight across the warp, resulting in a fabric with a "negative image" of the motifs on the back side. Illustrations of "pua sungkit" with the proper identification can be found in Kahn Majlis 1984:plate 663 & 664. These are the only illustrations in the literature. They are characterized by lateral stripes flanking the center "sungkit" section. In one case the cloth consists of two panels with the stripes woven at the sides of the panels; in the other case, the stripes are separate panels sewn to one central "sungkit" panel, resulting in a three panel cloth. It is not clear from the literature to what extent "pua sungkit" fulfilled the same functions as ikat-decorated "pua". See entry for X75.51 for background information on the role of "pua" in Iban society.
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Heading:
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BIBLIOGRAPHY:
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Notes:
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Kahn Majlis, Brigitte. 1984. INDONESISCCHE TEXTILIEN: WEGE ZU GOTTERN UND AHNEN. Cologne, Germany, Rautenstrauch-Joest-Museum.
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Collection Description:
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METS ID:
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ark:/13030/ft7h4nb4kb
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