Detail View: Museum and the Online Archive of California: Textile; jacket. Sumatra

Collection: 
Museum and the Online Archive of California
Creation Place: 
Bengkulu
Creation Place: 
Indonesia
Creation Place: 
Kauer
Creation Place: 
Sumatra
Title: 
Textile; jacket. Sumatra
Materials: 
handwoven
Materials: 
supplementary weft
Materials: 
sewn
Materials: 
embroidered
Materials: 
appliqued
Materials: 
cotton
Materials: 
nassa shell
Materials: 
mirror
Materials: 
"cermuk"
Materials: 
silk
Dimensions: 
27.6 cm by 138.4 cm
Current Location: 
Fowler Museum of Cultural History. University of California, Los Angeles.
Address: 
Los Angeles, California 90095-1549
Object ID: 
UCLA FMCH X81.1492
Subject: 
- handwoven supplementary weft sewn embroidered appliqued cotton nassa shell mirror "cermuk" silk
Heading: 
Content/Description
Notes: 
REMARKS COMPILED IN 1987 BY ROY HAMILTON ON BASIS OF EXISTING RECORDS, EXAMINATION OF OBJECT, AND REVIEW OF THE LITERATURE: Unmarried woman's jacket for ceremonial occasions. From the Kauer people of Lampung Province. The Kauer inhabit the mountainous west coast of Sumatra in southern Bengkulu Province, across the border from Lampung Province [see Gittinger 1972:Map 3]. They do not live in the immediate vicinity of Lampung Bay proper, as is implied in the original accession information. See Gittinger 1979:85 for an illustration of the wearing of this style of jacket. Tailored from a single rectangular cloth. The basic fabric is handspun, handwoven cotton. The back panel is decorated with supplementary weft at the time of weaving. Embroidery and applique are added to the cloth after weaving is completed. The applied elements include mirror pieces known as "cermuk" and ground nassa shell beads. The cloth is then cut and sewn to form the jacket. See Gittinger 1979:87 for an illustration of an entire cloth before it is cut to make the jacket.
Heading: 
BIBLIOGRAPHY:
Notes: 
Gittinger, Mattiebelle. 1972. A STUDY OF THE SHIP CLOTHS OF SUMATRA: THEIR DESIGN AND USAGE. Ph.D. Dissertation, Columbia University.
Collection Description: 
METS ID: 
ark:/13030/ft109n99ts