Collection:
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Museum and the Online Archive of California
Collection
Museum and the Online Archive of California
Collection
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Creation Place:
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Bhene Laja
cdidorinamname
Bhene Laja
Creation Place
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Creation Place:
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Flores
cdidorinamname
Flores
Creation Place
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Creation Place:
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Indonesia
cdidorinamname
Indonesia
Creation Place
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Creation Place:
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Lio
cdidorinamname
Lio
Creation Place
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Creation Place:
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Onelako Village
cdidorinamname
Onelako Village
Creation Place
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Creation Place:
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Radawuwu Hamlet
cdidorinamname
Radawuwu Hamlet
Creation Place
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Title:
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Textile; semba; man's shoulder cloth. Indonesia
cdiduniunittitle
Textile; semba; man's shoulder cloth. Indonesia
Title
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Date:
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1930-1953
cdiduniunitdate
1930-1953
Date
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Materials:
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fabric, cotton
cdidphyphyphysfacet
fabric, cotton
Materials
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Materials:
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hand spun
cdidphyphyphysfacet
hand spun
Materials
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Materials:
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hand woven
cdidphyphyphysfacet
hand woven
Materials
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Materials:
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back tension loom
cdidphyphyphysfacet
back tension loom
Materials
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Materials:
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warp ikat
cdidphyphyphysfacet
warp ikat
Materials
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Materials:
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hand sewn
cdidphyphyphysfacet
hand sewn
Materials
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Materials:
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indigo
cdidphyphyphysfacet
indigo
Materials
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Materials:
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morinda dye
cdidphyphyphysfacet
morinda dye
Materials
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Materials:
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fringed
cdidphyphyphysfacet
fringed
Materials
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Materials:
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twined
cdidphyphyphysfacet
twined
Materials
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Dimensions:
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228.0 cm by 123.4 cm
cdidphydimdimensions
228.0 cm by 123.4 cm
Dimensions
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Current Location:
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Fowler Museum of Cultural History. University of California, Los Angeles.
crepcorcorpname
Fowler Museum of Cultural History. University of California, Los Angeles.
Current Location
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Address:
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Los Angeles, California 90095-1549
crepaddaddaddresslin e
Los Angeles, California 90095-1549
Address
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Object ID:
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UCLA FMCH X88.1277
cdiduniunitid
UCLA FMCH X88.1277
Object ID
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Subject:
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- fabric, cotton hand spun hand woven back tension loom warp ikat hand sewn indigo morinda dye fringed twined
cconpp
- fabric, cotton hand spun hand woven back tension loom warp ikat hand sewn indigo morinda dye fringed twined
Subject
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Heading:
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Content/Description
coddhead
Content/Description
Heading
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Notes:
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REMARKS BY ROY HAMILTON (1988): Constructed of two panels sewn together by hand. Field collected in the home of the owners. The ikat work for this cloth was done by Bhene Laja, a weaver who is credited with establishing this pattern in the Ndona Subdistrict. The cloth was comissioned by a family in a neighboring hamlet, who probably arranged for the weaving among the women of thier own family. Bhene Laja was born in the Manu Nggo'ok section of the town of Ende. She married a man from Onelako and moved there, remaining for the rest of her life. Two panel men's shoulder cloths were once common in Ende. According to informants in Onelako, Bhene copied this pattern from the work of another Ende weaver, then brought it with her when she moved to Onelako. Over the intervening years, this style of cloth has completely died out in Ende. Two panel cloths have not been made there since WWII. The pattern and two-panel style became established and flourished in Onelako and spread to other neighboring villages in Ndona Subdistrict, especially Lokoboko and Wolotopo. This style of cloth is now considered characteristic of Ndona Subdistrict. Most weavers know the cloth only as "semba". During interviews in the field, one very elderly and knowledgable weaver said additionally that the name of the pattern itself is "lika mboja" and that the full proper name of the cloth should be "semba lika mboja". Bhene Laja died approximately 1953. The production date of this cloth is not known with certainty and might have been anytime from 1930 to 1953.
coddpp
REMARKS BY ROY HAMILTON (1988): Constructed of two panels sewn together by hand. Field collected in the home of the owners. The ikat work for this cloth was done by Bhene Laja, a weaver who is credited with establishing this pattern in the Ndona Subdistrict. The cloth was comissioned by a family in a neighboring hamlet, who probably arranged for the weaving among the women of thier own family. Bhene Laja was born in the Manu Nggo'ok section of the town of Ende. She married a man from Onelako and moved there, remaining for the rest of her life. Two panel men's shoulder cloths were once common in Ende. According to informants in Onelako, Bhene copied this pattern from the work of another Ende weaver, then brought it with her when she moved to Onelako. Over the intervening years, this style of cloth has completely died out in Ende. Two panel cloths have not been made there since WWII. The pattern and two-panel style became established and flourished in Onelako and spread to other neighboring villages in Ndona Subdistrict, especially Lokoboko and Wolotopo. This style of cloth is now considered characteristic of Ndona Subdistrict. Most weavers know the cloth only as "semba". During interviews in the field, one very elderly and knowledgable weaver said additionally that the name of the pattern itself is "lika mboja" and that the full proper name of the cloth should be "semba lika mboja". Bhene Laja died approximately 1953. The production date of this cloth is not known with certainty and might have been anytime from 1930 to 1953.
Notes
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Collection Description:
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hyperlink
Collection Description
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METS ID:
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ark:/13030/ft109n99w t
cpoi
ark:/13030/ft109n99w t
METS ID
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