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Collection:
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Museum and the Online Archive of California
Collection
Museum and the Online Archive of California
Collection
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Creation Place:
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East Sumba
cdidorinamname
East Sumba
Creation Place
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Creation Place:
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Indonesia
cdidorinamname
Indonesia
Creation Place
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Title:
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Textile; lau pahudu; sarong; woman's skirt. Indonesia
cdiduniunittitle
Textile; lau pahudu; sarong; woman's skirt. Indonesia
Title
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Materials:
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handwoven
cdidphyphyphysfacet
handwoven
Materials
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Materials:
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supplementary warp
cdidphyphyphysfacet
supplementary warp
Materials
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Materials:
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cotton
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cotton
Materials
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Materials:
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fabric
cdidphyphyphysfacet
fabric
Materials
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Dimensions:
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131.0 cm by 65.0 cm
cdidphydimdimensions
131.0 cm by 65.0 cm
Dimensions
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Current Location:
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Fowler Museum of Cultural History. University of California, Los Angeles.
crepcorcorpname
Fowler Museum of Cultural History. University of California, Los Angeles.
Current Location
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Address:
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Los Angeles, California 90095-1549
crepaddaddaddresslin e
Los Angeles, California 90095-1549
Address
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Object ID:
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UCLA FMCH X76.886
cdiduniunitid
UCLA FMCH X76.886
Object ID
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Subject:
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- geometric
- handwoven supplementary warp cotton fabric
cconpp
- geometric
- handwoven supplementary warp cotton fabric
Subject
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Heading:
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Content/Description
coddhead
Content/Description
Heading
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Notes:
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REMARKS COMPILED IN 1987 BY ROY HAMILTON ON BASIS OF EXISTING RECORDS, EXAMINATION OF OBJECT, AND REVIEW OF THE LITERATURE: "Lau pahudu" or a woman's sarong which uses supplementary warp as the major decorative technique [Adams 1969:83 and fig. 17]. This "lau" is still in one panel with the warp ends uncut, just as it was taken off the continuous-warp back-tension loom. Probably handspun and commercial thread; commercial dyes. Said to be "old" on accession sheet. For a description of the supplementary warp technique in East Sumba, see Bolland 1956:49-56. Where the warp threads are left unwoven on this cloth, the supplementary character of the white warp threads can easily been seen. Women's "lau", like the men's "hinggi", were traditionally exchanged among allied clans, particularly as a part of marriage negotiations [Adams 1969:50]. New cloths with uncut warps would have been particularly appropriate for this use. In order to make a sarong out of such a cloth, it would have been cut in half across the middle, then the two halves would be sewn together selvage to selvage, and lastly the cut warp ends would be sewn closed to form a tube. A tiny stick of wood is tied into the unwoven warp threads; this is a repair of broken warp threads made in order to preserve even tension in the weaving process.
coddpp
REMARKS COMPILED IN 1987 BY ROY HAMILTON ON BASIS OF EXISTING RECORDS, EXAMINATION OF OBJECT, AND REVIEW OF THE LITERATURE: "Lau pahudu" or a woman's sarong which uses supplementary warp as the major decorative technique [Adams 1969:83 and fig. 17]. This "lau" is still in one panel with the warp ends uncut, just as it was taken off the continuous-warp back-tension loom. Probably handspun and commercial thread; commercial dyes. Said to be "old" on accession sheet. For a description of the supplementary warp technique in East Sumba, see Bolland 1956:49-56. Where the warp threads are left unwoven on this cloth, the supplementary character of the white warp threads can easily been seen. Women's "lau", like the men's "hinggi", were traditionally exchanged among allied clans, particularly as a part of marriage negotiations [Adams 1969:50]. New cloths with uncut warps would have been particularly appropriate for this use. In order to make a sarong out of such a cloth, it would have been cut in half across the middle, then the two halves would be sewn together selvage to selvage, and lastly the cut warp ends would be sewn closed to form a tube. A tiny stick of wood is tied into the unwoven warp threads; this is a repair of broken warp threads made in order to preserve even tension in the weaving process.
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Heading:
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BIBLIOGRAPHY:
coddhead
BIBLIOGRAPHY:
Heading
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Notes:
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Bolland, Rita. 1956. "Weaving a Sumba woman's skirt." In LAMAK AND MALAT IN BALI AND A SUMBA LOOM, Th.P. Galestin, L. Langewis & Rita Bolland, Royal Tropical Institute, Amsterdam.
coddpp
Bolland, Rita. 1956. "Weaving a Sumba woman's skirt." In LAMAK AND MALAT IN BALI AND A SUMBA LOOM, Th.P. Galestin, L. Langewis & Rita Bolland, Royal Tropical Institute, Amsterdam.
Notes
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Collection Description:
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hyperlink
Collection Description
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METS ID:
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ark:/13030/ft5s2006x h
cpoi
ark:/13030/ft5s2006x h
METS ID
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